How to do a Sea-Doo Coolant Flush on a Jetski
A Sea-Doo Coolant Flush on a 4-TEC Rotax engine is a lot like a modern car engine. It it uses Type A coolant to keep the engine at the correct operating temperature. If you haven’t replaced the green coolant in over 200 hours or 2 years its time to get it done.
My Sea-Doo jet ski coolant was well over due at 3 years. Coolant will start to lose its anti-corrosive properties and fail, so best to get it replaced at manufactures recommendations.
Replace Sea-Doo Coolant
Now you can take your Sea-doo 4-tec to your local dealership, and start handing out your hard-earned cash, or you can do it yourself. The Jet-ski coolant flush should only take around 20 minutes. Your owners guide manual will say, it has to be done by the dealer, but it is really easy to do it yourself.
First run into your local auto supply store and pick up some Type A Coolant, usually made of Ethylene Glycol together with some protective additives. It is mixed with water to produce coolant. You can either get the ready mixed stuff or the concentrate and mix our own with Demineralised water, 50 – 50 mix.
5 Litres will be enough to completely change out your jet-ski coolant.
I always use Calibre Anti-Freeze/Anti-Boil Type A, 5 years or 250,000km protection
- Remove coolant pressure cap from over flow plastic tank.
- Carefully remove stainless drain plug from bottom of ride plate using hex Allen key and drain into a container. Do this where spillage wont matter.
- Pour demineralised water into overflow tank and flush out any remaining coolant. When it’s finished draining pour a 50/50 mix into the overflow tank
- Have someone watch the drain plug as you pour the mix in, as soon as there are no air bubbles, screw in the drain plug. This is optional but helps not having to re-top up coolant next time you go for a ride.
- Fill the overflow tank to the correct line. Not too much, too little.
- Replace overflow coolant tank cap.
- If you have a torque wrench torque up the drain plug – 75lbf.inch
- Run Sea-Doo jet ski engine for 30 seconds, and recheck coolant level. Top up if required.
Thanks to 3ftDeep for this detailed Sea-Doo Coolant Flush procedure
What can Go Wrong – Snapping a Bolt or Screw
For some reason the hex stainless drain bolt for the Sea-doo is made out of butter. Not sure if it’s a bad batch or bad design but there are a few cases or people snapping off the heads of these bolts. Possibly being over tightened at the Sea doo factory or at the dealer if your coolant has been changed out before.
So how do you get out the snapped bolt. Well there are a few devices made to help with broken bolts but the 2 that are very common are:
Easy Outs, SpeedOuts, Damaged Screw Extractor & Bolt Extractor Set
and Left Handed drill bits.
Everyone should have these in their tool box.
How to Remove a Broken Bolt on your Sea-doo
First centre punch the centre of your broken Sea-doo bolt. This will help your left-handed drill bit get a good start in life. The stainless is a very hard metal so take it slow.
Use you drill on slow speed first to start drilling. If you are using a left-handed drill bit make sure the drill is in reverse. If using only normal drill bits you want to run forward direction. Be carefull on bolts that go into a cavity.
The Sea-doo drain plug stops fluid from coming out. These is nothing stopping the bolt from travelling into the center of the ride plate cooling reservoir, if the bolt head snaps off. Be careful if using normal drill bits to dill out the broken bolt, because if running forward direction and the drill bit catches, you will wind the drain bolt all the way into the ride plate. You will never get it out.
Most times the bolt will self wind out if using a left-handed bit. If it wont, once you have drilled in about 1 cm you can use the Easy Out. Job done.