Technology really has made our life more simple and at times and I’m loving all the new home automation. I can press one button on my home theatre room setup and have the Philips Hue lights dim, the projector screen will come down, the outdoor window roller shutters will close and the sound system will turn on.
All that I am left to do is to turn on my home theatre PC or DVD/Blueray player. But all this new automation comes at a cost, be it financial or it can be too complicated for the average consumer. But what happens when something goes wrong? Who can repair it all?
One of my favorite purchases is our Homegear 100-inch automatic motorized projector screen. It has given us hundreds of hours of family fun movie nights. Its simple to operate, easy to set up, and easy to repair when things go wrong.
Motorized projector screen failure symptoms.
The other day after we had finished watching a Blueray movie I pressed the button on the Logitech remote to retract the projector screen and just walked away. I came running back after I started to hear grinding noises. (This was the first time this had ever happened)
What had happened was that the projector screen had retracted all the way up and drove through the upper limit. The metal bar weight on the bottom of the screen was now jammed internally. The screen would not go down and just made this horrible grinding sound.
There was nothing left to do but remove this large projector screen and dismantle it to work out what had actually happened. Being an electrician has taught me many things and one thing always stands out to me. “Parts rarely fail without something else causing that problem.”
Taking apart the projector screen was simple enough but was made easier with an extra pair of hands. The projector screen has 4 main parts.
- The long metal outer housing
- Syncro motor 60KTYZ 110v 15rpm
- Endstop adjustable limit switches for up and down
- Painted screen fabric with included metal weights.
After a full investigation, I came up with the following sequence of events. Sounds like a crime scene!
Why did my motorized projector screen fail?
All that holds the screen in place is a small metal circlip. For some reason, this had come adrift causing the screen to pop out of its housing. This small drop of about 5mm was undetectable but enough to cause the mechanical screw to miss striking the limit switch.
There is now no safety limit for the up position. When the weighted screen bar came to the top it slammed into the metal housing causing the projector screen motor to destroy its internal gears. This is the grinding noise I heard.
Removing the motor and inspecting its internal gear sprockets confirmed this. These reduction gears are used to reduce the rotation speed and provide extra torque. So a new motor is required.
This is why the motorized projector screen won’t go down.
Projector screen motor replace procedure
The motor I needed was an AC 220V 14W High Torque 50Hz Gear-Box 60KTYZ. This is a Permanent Synchronous Gear Motor with a preset speed. Just be aware this is the 230v model for Australia, not 110v.
If you are after the 110v 60KTYZ model then check it out here over at Amazon.
Rotating Speed options: 5 / 15 / 20 / 30 / 60 / 110 r/min. These are selectable but only from the manufacturer as its different internal gears.
60KTYZ Motor uses and specs
These motors are mainly used in stage lighting, advertising exhibition equipment, medical equipment, sports equipment, automatic curtain control, electric table, electric posters, electric shelves, automatic turntable, dishwashers, scientific and educational equipment, optical fiber Christmas lights, fiber optic flowers, rotating lights, and outdoor roller shutters.
- Model: 60KTYZ
- Shaft Style: in center
- Power: 14W
- Voltage: AC110V
- Frequency: 50HZ
- Rated speed: 15r/min
- The torque output: 7.5kg.cm
- Shaft Diameter: 6mm;
- Moter Part Size: 60*60mm(D*H)
- Total Height: 86mm;
- Weight: 0.55kg
These projector screen motor replacements are cheap to buy and can be installed in around 1/2 hour.
There are really no replaceable parts inside, just the motor and a few gears all held together with a large circlip. Just make sure you buy the correct voltage for your country.
110v for the USA, 230v for Australia and some other countries. If you wire them up back to front all that will happen is the up button will go down and down will go up. Make sure that when you do a test run you are ready to pull the power plug. We don’t want to destroy another motor.
What speed of motor do I need for the projector screen?
This is a personal preference. But usually, it’s around 10 to 15 revolution per minute. I found that the slower the motor is the quieter it will be.
I chose the 15 rpm synchro motor so that the screen would do down and up quickly.
How to Remove the faulty projector screen motor 60KTYZ.
Make sure to fully power down your projector screen. Mains voltage is dangerous. Remove the screws that hold the projector screen end caps. This will give you access to remove the synchro motor.
If you look at the end of the motor it is held in the projector frame by 4 small screws. Just remove these. There may also be a few other screws which hold a rigid bracket in place.
Disconnect the 3 cables going to the motor as well as an earth wire if one is installed. It’s best to take a photo of the motor connections for future reference. Once the screws are removed and the cables the synchro motor will pull out.
Be careful not to lose the plastic coupling that attaches the motor to the projector screen. All that is required is the reinstall the new projector screen motor and wire it up.
The hardest part was to align up the motor with the screen. I was able to do this with the help of a few screwdrivers to prop up the heavy screen into the center so that the coupling could be inserted.
Don’t forget to test run the motor to make sure it is going the right way.
How to adjust motorized projector screens up and down the full length.
Having the ability to adjust the top and bottom travel stops on the projector screen and motorized window shutters are something we all should get acquainted with.
This is so you can get your screen perfectly centered for your viewing habits. There are 2 limit switches mounted on an adjustable screw. The projector screen has a spline that will move an end stop closer to each limit switch while it is in motion.
If you look at one end of your projector screen you will see 2 little holes. This is where you will insert a small screwdriver to adjust the small micro switches.
It’s best to only make small adjustments and then test your projector screen for correct length.
I found that 1/2 turn will make around 1 inch of screen travel. That’s about it. Outdoor roller blinds and window shutters usually have the same motor. They are very common and usually very reliable. Just don’t get them wet or put any extra load on them, so that they will last many years.
Motorized projector screen won’t go down.
If you find that your screen wont go down then you have either a bad down limit switch, your motor is faulty, or there is a power problem. If it is a blown fuse then it will need to be replaced and the fault rectified.
This was a fun DIY projector screen motor replace job. I’m sure now it should give us many more years of full autonomous home theatre enjoyment. Especially now that we have an outdoor backyard movie projector for when the weather is good.
Bring on the outdoor cinema. Fun times.